THURSDAY'S RECIPE: Bread of the Dead is the sweet soul of Mexico

Pan de Muerto, an emblem of Mexican gastronomy and a symbol of life, death, and remembrance. A tradition that unites aroma, technique, and emotion in every bite

Every fall, as the air is filled with marigolds and copal, one of the most symbolic preparations of Mexican cuisine begins in homes and bakeries across Mexico: Bread of the Dead. More than a recipe, it is a tangible representation of the relationship Mexicans have with death, a celebration that honors life through flavor, aroma, and memory.

In its shape, texture, and aroma, this bread embodies centuries of fusion, adaptation, and baking artistry. Making it isn't just about following a formula; it's about participating in a ritual that unites generations.

Origins and historical evolution

Bread of the Dead has roots in both pre-Hispanic and colonial traditions. In Mesoamerican cultures, corn bread or offerings symbolized spiritual nourishment for the deceased. Some chronicles report that, during certain rituals, human hearts offered to the gods were symbolically replaced with red-dyed bread made from amaranth or corn.

With the arrival of the Spanish, wheat and sugar replaced corn and amaranth, and European baking techniques were introduced. In colonial convents, nuns adapted indigenous symbolism to the Catholic faith, incorporating ingredients such as egg, butter, and orange blossom water, which gave the bread softness, aroma, and mysticism.

Over time, the recipe became popular throughout the country, adopting the characteristics of each region, while always preserving its essence: a living offering, a way to remember and give thanks.

Symbolism in its form and structure

Each element of the Pan de Muerto has a deep meaning:

• The round shape represents the cycle of life and death, the continuity of existence.
  

• The crossed strips of dough symbolize the bones and tears of the deceased.
  

• The central ball alludes to the heart or the skull, depending on the regional interpretation.
  

• White sugar or sesame seeds evoke the purity of the soul, while bread covered with red sugar in some villages recalls the blood of sacrifice.
  

This symbolic meaning, combined with the complexity of its technique, makes Pan de Muerto a product of national identity and intangible cultural heritage.

Technical preparation: the science behind bread

Pan de Muerto belongs to the family of enriched doughs, similar to French brioche, as it contains high percentages of fat, sugar, and eggs. This requires a slower, more delicate fermentation, involving physical and chemical processes that give it its spongy texture and characteristic aroma.

1. Gluten formation. Although excess fat can inhibit gluten formation, prolonged kneading allows the development of a gluten network elastic enough to retain fermentation gases. It's essential to work the dough until you achieve the "membrane test": when you stretch it between your fingers, it should become translucent without breaking.
   

2. Controlled fermentation. Yeast acts more slowly in high-fat doughs. Therefore, a long fermentation is crucial, ideally in two stages: an initial fermentation at room temperature, followed by a second after shaping. This process enhances the aromas and improves the crumb structure.
   

3. Even baking. Bake at a medium temperature (170–180°C) to prevent the exterior from browning before the interior is fully cooked. Even baking ensures a soft, moist, and aromatic bread.
   

4. Cooling and topping. Once removed from the oven, brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar. This step, more than decorative, creates a layer that retains moisture and enhances the orange blossom fragrance.
   

Regional and contemporary variants

Throughout the country, each region has reinterpreted Pan de Muerto according to its own ingredients and local customs.

• Traditional from the central region: light dough, flavored with orange and orange blossom water, covered with white sugar.
  

• Sesame (Puebla and Tlaxcala): covered with toasted seeds, sugar-free, with notes of anise.
  

• Yolk bread (Oaxaca): Dense, with butter and egg yolks, decorated with sugar faces; served with frothy hot chocolate.
  

• Purépecha (Michoacán): Human or zoomorphic in shape, glazed and decorated with natural colors; often used on family altars.
  

• Contemporary or signature: filled with cream, chocolate ganache, dulce de leche, marigold cream, or even mezcal mousse.
  

Today, chefs are exploring whole-grain, vegan, and naturally fermented (sourdough) versions, seeking to reinterpret the symbol from a sustainable and healthy perspective without losing its cultural essence.

Pan de Muerto — Professional Step-by-Step Recipe

Yield: 2 medium loaves (∼650–700 g each) Active time: 40–50 min. Total fermentation: 3½–5 h (depending on room temperature) Difficulty: Intermediate. Type of dough: Enriched (brioche-style)

Ingredients

Base Dough

• Bread flour (11–12% protein) – 600 g.

• Whole milk, lukewarm (24–28 °C / 75–82 °F) – 220–260 g (add gradually)

• Eggs – 3 large (∼150 g without shells)

• Sugar – 150 g.

• Butter – 120 g, very soft but not melted.

• Instant dry yeast – 7 g (or 20 g fresh yeast)

• Fine salt – 7 g.

• Finely grated orange zest – 1–2 teaspoons

• Orange blossom water – 1–2 teaspoons (adjust to taste)

• Vanilla extract – 1 teaspoon (optional)
  

Finishing

• Melted butter – 40 g.

• Granulated sugar, as needed (or toasted sesame seeds for the traditional unsweetened variant)

Note on texture: This is a rich dough. It should feel soft, elastic, and slightly sticky at the beginning, but smooth and manageable after kneading.

Method

1) Activate and Combine (10 min)

1. Mix the lukewarm milk with yeast and 1 tablespoon of sugar. Let it rest for 5–8 minutes until foamy.

2. In a large bowl or in a mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine flour, remaining sugar, salt, orange zest, orange blossom water, and vanilla. Add the eggs and the yeast mixture.

3. Mix on low speed for 2–3 minutes until all flour is hydrated. The dough should look rough but cohesive.
   

2) Knead and Develop Gluten (12–18 min)

4. Knead on medium speed. Once the dough begins to smooth out (after about 5 minutes), add the softened butter in 3 additions, allowing each to incorporate fully before the next.

5. Continue kneading until the dough passes the windowpane test: stretch a small piece until thin and translucent without tearing.Ideal dough temperature: 24–26 °C (75–79 °F).
   

3) First Fermentation (Bulk Ferment) (60–90 min)

6. Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly greased bowl. Cover and let rise at 26–28 °C (79–82 °F) until it increases 70–100% in volume (almost doubled).In cooler environments, fermentation may take 90–120 minutes.
   

4) Divide, Rest, and Shape (20–30 min)

7. Gently degas the dough. Divide into two 500 g portions for the central bodies, reserving about 100–120 g for the “bones” and “skull.”

8. Round each main piece into a smooth ball, then rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

9. For each loaf, roll 2–3 thin strips (“bones”) and one small ball (“skull”). With lightly floured hands, elongate the strips and press gently with fingers to mark “joints.”

10. Cross the strips over each dough ball, then place a small sphere in the center.
    

5) Second Fermentation (Final Proof) (60–90 min)

11. Transfer the loaves to a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Cover loosely and proof at 26–28 °C until puffy, light, and slightly wobbly when the tray is shaken.
    

6) Baking (22–28 min)

12. Preheat the oven to 170–175 °C (340–350 °F), top and bottom heat.

13. Bake for 22–28 minutes, depending on loaf size and oven. The crust should be evenly golden. Internal temperature target: 92–94 °C (198–201 °F).

14. Remove from oven, rest for 5 minutes, then brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar (or sesame seeds if making the unsweetened version).
    

7) Cooling and Serving

15. Cool completely on a wire rack for 45–60 minutes before slicing. This resting period allows the crumb to set and retain its moisture.

Chef Yerika's Technique: Balance and Sensitivity

In professional practice, the secret of Pan de Muerto lies in balance. The dough must have enough strength to retain air and enough fat to maintain softness. Resting times must be strictly adhered to, as too short a fermentation results in a dense bread, and too long a fermentation results in a collapsed bread.

Hand kneading allows you to perceive the development of the gluten and control the texture. The orange blossom scent should be noticeable, but not overpowering; its purpose is to enhance the natural aroma of the wheat and butter, not cover them up.

In professional cooking, a uniform, crack-free finish with a slightly shiny crust is also sought. The bread should be light to the touch, with an open crumb and delicate alveoli.

The symbolic value of flavor

Beyond the technique, Pan de Muerto represents an emotional connection. It's the bread shared with family, offered on altars, baked in silence or in community. Its flavor returns us to our roots, to the kitchen as a meeting place between past and present.

Preparing it every year is a form of cultural resistance, a reminder that death is not absence but living memory. In its sweetness lies the promise of reunion, the continuity of life, and the beauty of the ephemeral.

Final recommendations

• Use medium-strength flour (11-12% protein) to achieve a balance between structure and softness.
  

• Maintain the dough temperature between 24 and 26°C during kneading to prevent yeast damage.
  

• Use good-quality butter and fresh orange zest.
  

• If using sourdough, reduce the sugar content and increase the fermentation time.
  

• The bread can be stored, wrapped, for up to 3 days or frozen after baking.
  

Bread of the Dead is an expression of identity, technique, and love. A shared history beats within every gram of flour and every fold of dough. It's a bread that transcends the recipe and becomes an act of collective memory. Making it is, ultimately, a way to honor life through the art of Mexican baking.