El Tlapique: Wisdom, flavor and history of Xochimilco

Tlapique de pescado at the vibrant Xochimilco market. Image courtesy of HuachinangoALaVeracruzana

Among Mexico's diverse culinary riches, some dishes are a living testament to pre-Hispanic wisdom. One of them is the tlapique, whose name comes from the Nahuatl word tlapictli, meaning "thing wrapped in corn husks." Although at first glance it may resemble a tamale, the tlapique is much more than that: it's an ancient cooking technique that originated in the lake landscapes of Xochimilco, Tláhuac, and Culhuacán.

Origins and pre-Hispanic evolution

In its original form, mextlapique was made with small lagoon fish, such as charales, carp, axolotls, tadpoles, and frog legs. These ingredients were combined with nopales, epazote, vegetables, and chilies, then carefully wrapped in corn husks (totomoxtle) and cooked directly on the comal or over hot coals.

Over the centuries and with the loss of many aquatic species, the tlapique has adapted to modern times. Today, we find versions with fish fillets, chicken, gizzards, tripe, vegetables, or combinations of local ingredients that keep its community and chinampa spirit alive.

The axolotl and its cultural connection

Within the gastronomic memory of the tlapique, there is a historical variant featuring the axolotl (Ambystoma mexicanum), a species endemic to Xochimilco that was once considered a ritual delicacy. However, due to the critical conservation status of this animal endangered due to pollution, habitat loss, and hunting—this version remains as a historical testament and a reminder of the importance of preserving biodiversity and chinampa ecosystems.

Emblematic recipes of tlapique

1. Fish Tlapique (traditional Profeco-style version) Ingredients: totomoxtle, lard (optional), nopales, onion, epazote, quelites, tomato, guajillo chile, carp or mojarra fillets, and salt. Method: Wrap all ingredients in a corn husk and cook on a griddle for 30 minutes.
   

2. Chef Gerardo Vázquez Lugo's version (Animal Gourmet) Ingredients: whole or filleted mojarra, squash, onion, corn, tomato, serrano pepper, epazote, and olive oil. Method: Roast in a corn husk until juicy and aromatic.
   

3. Pre-Hispanic Vegetarian Tlapique with Xoconostle and Nopal (Masa Americana) Ingredients: Nopales, xoconostle, chile de árbol, epazote. Method: Everything is wrapped in a corn husk and roasted, achieving a unique, acidic, and herbal flavor.
   

4. Axolotl Mextlapique (historical) Recorded in traditional sources, today it is considered part of the cultural heritage rather than everyday cuisine.
   

Practical recipe for homemade fish tlapique

Yields: 4 servings. Prep time: 45 minutes.

Ingredients:

• 4 white fish fillets (carp or mojarra)

• 8 dried corn leaves (totomoxtle), soaked and softened.

• 2 nopales cut into strips.

• 2 sliced tomatoes.

• 1 guajillo chile, deveined and sliced.

• 1 julienned onion.

• 4 sprigs of fresh epazote.

• Salt and pepper to taste.

• A splash of oil (butter or olive oil, depending on preference)
  

Procedure:

1. Soften corn husks by soaking them in hot water until they are pliable.

2. Place two sheets overlapping and a fish fillet in the center.

3. Add nopales, tomato, guajillo chili, onion and a sprig of epazote.

4. Drizzle with a little oil, salt and pepper.

5. Wrap the tlapique and secure the ends.

6. Cook on a griddle over medium-low heat or directly on the coals for 25-30 minutes, turning halfway through.

7. Serve hot, accompanied by molcajeteada salsa and freshly made tortillas.
   

Cultural and gastronomic value

Tlapique is more than a dish: it's a symbol of the union between water, earth, and chinampas. Its cooking technique captures the respectful relationship between humans and nature, keeping Mesoamerican identity alive in every bite.

Tasting a tlapique in Xochimilco, in markets like Jamaica or La Merced, or in communities like San Gregorio Atlapulco, is an experience that connects with the history, memory, and living culture of Mexico.

The tlapique is not a simple "wrapped dish": it's a culinary heritage that stands the test of time, adapting without losing its essence. In every charred corn husk, in every aroma of epazote and chile, lies the wisdom of generations who knew how to take advantage of what the land and water had to offer. Recovering and preparing a tlapique at home is an act of memory and love for ancestral cuisine.